Process of making shoes



' Aug. 17, 1937. w. H; BAIN 2,090,019-

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES Filed OCT.. 3l, 1934 /l/.s Hrronfrs.

Patented Aug. 17, 1937 UNITED STATES PROCESS F SHES William H. Bain, Westwood, Ohio, assigner to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 31, 1934, Serial No, 750,763

11 Claims. 'I'his invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, particularly shoes Without an insole in the forepart thereof, and has for its principal object to devise a simple and economical method of holding the forepart of a shoe upper in position until an outsole has been attached to the shoe. To the attainment of this object and in accordance with one of its aspects, the invention comprises applying a lasting strip Qr tape directly to a bare last bottom around the margin of the forepart thereof and securing the lasting allowance of a shoe upper to the strip. As illustrated herein the lasting strip may comprise a piece of fabric or similar material removably secured to the bare last bottom by holding means such, for example, as

temporary cement. Preferably, and as illustrated, one form of the invention provides for securing only the outer margin of a strip to the last bottom thereby leaving the inner margin free to be bent up to form an upstanding lip or rib to which the shoe upper may be secured, for

example, by staples to hold it in lasted position.

Before the upper is secured in lasted position the exposed surface of the base portion of the strip which-engages the last bottom is coated with a permanent adhesive so that when the upper is wiped over the edge of the last the marginal portions of the upper will become permanently stuck by the adhesive, the upper being heldin lasted position while the adhesive sets'by reason of its attachment to the upstanding lip. A trimming operation is then performed to removethe excess portions of the upper and strip from the last bottom, the cut being located so that the staples securing the-upper to the lip are also removed. An outsole is prepared for attachment by rabbeting or reducing its margins at the forepart to accommodate the overlasted edge'of the upper. The outsole may be attached to the shoe bottom either by cement or stitches.

In cases where extra heavy upper materials are used the opposite margins ofthe overlasted upper may be prevented from spreading after the trimming operation by strips extending transversely of the shoe bottom and secured to said opposite margins. The last may be easily removed from the completed shoe since the temporary cement bond securing the strip or tape to the last bottom is readily broken without affecting the permanent bond betweenV the upper and the opposite side of the strip.

In allother of its aspects the invention Vcomprises" applying tothe marginal portion of the forepart of a bare last bottom a strip or ribbon of temporary adhesive material, securing the margin of a shoe upper to the strip with a permanent adhesive to hold it in lasted position, and applying an outsole to the overlasted portions of the upper.

Alternatively, instead-of a strip of temporary 5 adhesive materiaL'a flat strip of fabric material coated with temporary adhesive may be stuck to the last bottom and the marginal portions of the upper secured to the fabric strip by a permanent adhesive. In either case'the temporary bond between the last and the upper or fabric strip may be readily broken to permit the removal of the last from the shoe without affecting the permanent bond between the upper and the outsole. Before the outsole is attached a trimming operation l may be performed, as indicated above, to remove the excess inner portions of the upper and the various lasting strips.

With the above and other objects and features in View the invention will now be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawing and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawing, which forms part of this specification and wherein like symbols refer to like parts Wherever they occur, 25

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan view of a last showing a lasting strip or tape and a shank piece secured thereto,

Fig. 2 is an enlarged vertical cross-section on the line 2 2 in Fig. 1,.

Fig. 3 is a view, similar to Fig. 1, showing the upper lasted to thelasting tape and shank piece,

Fig. 4 is a vertical cross-section on the line 4 4 in Fig. 3,

Fig. 5 is a view, similar to Fig. 4, showing the excess lasting allowance of the upper and the lip of the lasting tape removed and illustrating the strips that `tie together the opposite margins of the upper, Y

Fig.6 is Ya, bottom plan view of the shoe, with parts broken away, after an outsole is laid,

Fig. '1 is a vertical cross-section on the line 1 1 in Fig. 6,

Fig. 8 is apart side elevation and part vertical longitudinal section through the nished shoe,

Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are transverse vertical crosssectional views Asimilar to Figs. 2, 4 and 7 respec- V tively, illustrating a modication of the process shown in Figs. 1 to 8; and

Figs. 12, 13 and 14 are views similar to Figs. 9, 10Land'11-, respectively, illustrating another modiiication of the process. I

In carrying out the process illustrated in Figs.

1 to 8, inclusive, of the accompanying drawing, 55

a shank piece A of leatheror other suitable material is tacked or otherwise removably secured atwise to the bottom of a last B, the shank piece extending from the heel end of the last to the ball or break line thereof. A tape or strip C of fabric or other suitable material is removably secured, preferably by means of .a strip or ribbon of temporary cement l, to the bottom of the last B and extends along the marginal portion of the forepart thereof from the front edge of the shank piece A to the toeof the last. One margin,l

preferably the inner margin, of the tape C is left uncemented and is bent up to form an upstanding rib or lip 2 along the inner edge of said tape. The upper D is then pulled over the last and its marginal portion or lasting allowance is Secured,

preferably by tacks 3 4(Fig. 3), to the shank piece A and is secured by permanent cement l (Fig. 4)

to the base portion of the lasting tape C and byv staples 5 to the outer side of the upstanding lip of said tape.

After the permanent cement 4 has set suillciently to hold the upper to the 'base portion of the upper lasting tape C, the lip 2 of said tape and the marginal portion of the upper D secured thereto are cut away and carry with them the staples 5 used to secure these parts together. Along the shank piece A, the lasting allowance of the upper D is trimmed olf along a line located between the edge of the lasting allowance and the lasting tacks 3, thereby permitting said tacks to remain in the shoe. In this condition the shoe is ready to receive the outsole E, which is rabbe'ted or reduced at its margin, as at 6. around the -forepart to accommodate the overlasted edge of the upper. The outsole may be secured in place by cement alone, or it may be cemented to the upper and shank pieceland afterwards stitched thereto by through-and-through stitches. The strip of temporary cement I between the last and the lasting tape C permits the last to be readily strip and layers of cement, are cut away, asv

shown in Fig. 14, and the outsole E applied by eementing and/or stitching.

The hereinbefore described invention dispenses with the use of an insole or like member heretofore employed to hold the forepart of the upper in shape until the outsole is applied and thus provides a very economical and unusually'simple process of manufacturewhich results in akstrong and durable lightweight shoe that has extreme flexibility in the forepart of its sole.

What I claim is: f

l. The improvement in the process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in temporarily attaching a strip of ymaterial to a. bare last bottom around thev margin of the forepart thereof, securing the` lasting allowance of an upper to said strip, securing an outsole to the strip engaging portion of said upper, and after delasting the shoe, removing said strip from the forepart of the shoe.

2. 'I'he improvement inthe process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in adhesively attaching a strip of' material to the bottom of a bare last around the margin of the forepart thereof, said strip having an upstanding portion forming a lip, securing the lasting allowance of an upper to said strip including the lip, trimming olf the upstanding lip and removed from the shoe; and the portion of the stock is used, the overlasted margins of the forepart of the upper may be prevented from spreading apart by means of strips F of paper or other suitable material that extend transversely of the shoe bottom from one side margin of the upper to the other and have their opposite ends cemented or otherwise secured thereto. a

In the process illustrated in Figs. 9 to 11, the

the marginal portion of said lasting allowance, and securing an outsole to the strip engaging portion of said upper.

3. The improvement in the process of 'making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in temporarily attaching a strip of fabric material to a bare last bottom around the margin of the forepart thereof, securing the lasting allowance of an upper to said temporary strip by cement and metallic fastenings, trimming off the marginal portion ofv said lasting allowance and the portion of said strip containing the metallic fastenings,'thereby removing said fas- .tenings, and securing. an outsole tothe strip engaging portion of said upper.

4. The improvement in the process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in applying to the marginal portion of the bottom of a last a strip of temporary lasting tape is dispensed with and a strip or. ribbon la of temporary cement or other adhesive is stuck lightly to the bottom of the bare last B around vthe margin of the forepart thereof. 'I'he upper D is wiped over the last and its marginal portionis secured fiatwise to the strip I a by means of a permanent cement la and tacks 1. Afterthe permanent cement 4a has set, the tacks 1 are re moved,.the`excess material, both of the lasting allowance of the upper and of the two la'yers of cement, is cut away, as 'shown in Fig. 11, and an4 y shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof outsole E is then secured in position either by cement alone or by cement and stitches.

According to Figs. 12,v 13 and 14 a strip C vof paper or other suitable material is secured to the bottom of the last around the marginal poradhesive material that extends around the forepart thereof, securing `the margins of an upper to the exposed side of'said strip of adhesive material with a permanent cement, and applying an outsole to the margins of said upper.

5. The improvement in the Aprocess'of making which consists in applying to the bottom of a bare last a'strip of temporary adhesive material that extends around the margin of the forepart thereof, securing the margins of an upper to the top of said strip of adhesive material with a permanent cement, trimming off portions of the cooperating margins of said upper and the strip of temporary adhesive engaging the last; and applying an outsolev to the marginal portions of lsaid upper.

shoes without an'insole in the forepart thereof f which consists in applying directly to the bottom v of a bare last a strip of temporary cement that extends around the margin' of the forepart 6. 'I'he improvement in the process of making thereof, lasting an upper to said strip of cement with a permanent cement, securing the upper in lasted position until the permanent cement has set, and applying an outsole to the shoe bottom.

7. The improvement in the process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in removably securing a stripof material to the bottom of a last around the margin of the forepart thereof with one margin of said strip left free to form an upstanding lip, securing an upper to the base of said strip and to the upstanding lip thereof, cutting away said lip and the portion of the upper secured thereto, and applying an outsole to the strip engaging margins of said upper.

8. The improvement in the process of makin shoesA without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in removably securing a strip of material to the bottom of a last around the margin of the forepart'thereof with one margin of said strip left free to formv an upstanding lip, cementing'the upper to the base of said strip, securing the margins of said upper byV means of fasteners to the upstanding lip of said strip, cutting away said lip and the portion of the upper cooperating therewith together with said fasteners, and applying an outsole tothe strip engaging margins of said upper.

9. 'I'he improvement in the process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart 'thereof which consists -in securing with a. temporary cement a strip of material around the margin of the forepart of a last with the inner margin of said strip left free tov form an upstanding lip. cementing the upper to the base1 of said strip. securing the margin of said upper by means of v:fasteners to the upstanding lip of said strip, cutting away said lip and the portion of the upper cooperating therewith together with said fasteners, tying together the opposite margins of said upper by means of strips extending therebetween, and applying an outsole to the margins of said upper. l

10. The improvement in the process of making shoes without an insole in the forepart thereof which consists in removably securing a strip of material to the bottom of a last around the margin-oi the forepart thereof, securing the margins of said upper to said strip, trimming oi said margins, tying together opposite margins of said upper by means of zal.v strip extending therebetween, and applying an outsole to said margins.

l1. That improvement in the process of making shoes having no insoles in `ltheir foreparts which consists in temporarily cementing a strip of material to the lmarginal portion of the forepart of the `bare last bottom, securing a shoe upper in lasted position by attaching its lasting margin permanently to said strip, securing. an outsole to the strip engaging portion of the upper, and removing the strip from the last bottom by breaking the bond of the temporary cement.

WILLIAM H. BAIN. 

